Pet Sitter Reference Guide

An individual assigned to you to support you throughout the entire pet sitting process. In many cases, the Pet Sitter Coordinator and Adoption Coordinator are the same person.

An individual assigned to help with your visiting dog’s adoption process. In many cases, the Pet Sitter Coordinator and Adoption Coordinator are the same person.

The individual who originally rescued and fostered the dog in La Paz. The word “rescatista” means rescuer in Spanish. This person was responsible for rehabilitating the dog including vaccinations, sterilizations (spay/neuter), socialization, training, etc. This person is a valuable resource concerning the rescue history of the dog and is available to answer questions and provide ongoing support and suggestions concerning any continued training and rehabilitation of the dog that might be helpful in increasing its adoptability. These rescatistas often cared for these dogs for months and, in some cases, even years. They are often consulted concerning potential adopters to help in finalizing adoptions.

This consists of those individuals who help promote the dog via social media and the website. Sending photos, videos, and information that can be used to promote the dog will greatly help speed the dog’s adoption. If you are pet sitting a dog that is not yet pre-adopted, your help with photos and videos will be invaluable.

This is YOU! The person who has the dog in his/her care, helps us get the dog adopted, or perhaps just keeps the dog for a night or two during its journey to its forever home.

Your dog may have come with a small supply of food so it is important to slowly introduce new food to your foster dog by mixing a small amount of the old food with the new food. Because food can be confiscated by customs officials at either border, this may not be possible – but we will tell you the brand and type of food the dog has been eating. If a veterinarian prescribes a particular diet for medical reasons, Baja Dogs will pay for this.

Some dogs get diarrhea from a change in diet. If this happens, feed them cooked rice mixed with cottage cheese (2 to 1 ratio) for a day or two. Or you may try adding canned pumpkin puree to their meals: 2 teaspoons (for a small dog) or 2 tablespoons (for a large dog). Then reintroduce the dry kibble.

Create a consistent schedule for feeding your dog. Feed at the same times every day. Create a separate space for your dog to eat so they will feel comfortable. If you have other dogs at home, feed your visiting dog in a separate room and close the door – this will help prevent any arguments over food. Do not feed any “people” food. You do not know what the adoptive family will want to do, so don’t start a habit they will have to break; and by feeding only dog food, you are also discouraging begging.

Feeding will depend on the age and size of your dog.

• Adult dogs: dry adult dog food twice a day, once in the morning and once at night.
• Adolescent dogs (4 months to 1 year): dry puppy food, twice a day.
• Weaned puppies (6-8 weeks to 4 months): dry puppy food three to four times a day. Can be moistened with water or puppy formula.

If your dog is experiencing hot spots (red patches of hairless skin), it may be due to food allergies. Contact your Pet Sitter Coordinator about this for a recommendation. Always remember to provide plenty of fresh water!

Pet sitting a dog is a family affair, so please make sure that everyone in your household is ready, willing and able to provide a loving, temporary home for a rescued dog. Many adults and children have a difficult time adjusting to a new schedule or routine, and also have a difficult time “giving up” an animal to his forever home. Make sure everyone is ready for this new, albeit temporary, addition to your family.

Planning where you will keep your dog before it enters your home will make the entire process easier for everyone. When you first bring a new dog home, you’ll want to confine it to a single room, such as a kitchen or family room. This room should not be an isolated room, but a room where you spend a large part of your day or evening, as dogs are pack animals and want to be with you. This room is especially important when you’re at work or away from the house, as it will be a new environment in which they need time to become familiar and comfortable. Use a baby gate to block off the entrances to other rooms. By keeping the dog in one room, you’re helping prevent “accidents” that may occur because of stress or adjusting to your routine. (Even a house-trained dog might have an accident or two during this adjustment period.) For dogs that are not housetrained, keeping them confined to one room will help start this important training as you must be able to monitor their activities. We also recommend you use a crate in this room, particularly for times when you are away from the house.

• Do keep your dog indoors in a location with a crate available.
• Do keep your dog in a warm/cool (depending on the season) and dry location.
• Do keep your dog on a leash at all times when outdoors unless in your secured fenced yard. When in a secured yard, you must supervise him/her at all times. If your dog has been transported from La Paz, Mexico to a completely different geographic area, it may be very confused and try to escape to “go home.” So always supervise your dog whenever it is outside.
• Do keep your puppy indoors in a kitchen, bathroom, mudroom or laundry room (you may want to use baby gates to limit access to other parts of your home) while you are not there. Puppies should be around humans for socialization purposes and should not be isolated too much.

• Avoid placing your dog around other strange dogs unless you have first socialized them. Always supervise your dog when it is with your existing dogs.
• Avoid allowing your dog outdoors unless supervised by an adult.
• Never take your dog to an off-leash park. This is a liability to Baja Dogs La Paz.
• Never leave your dog in a hot car. Dogs don’t sweat like humans do to cool to themselves off so they are at a higher chance of heat stroke and this can be fatal.

Walk into the room in which you plan to confine your dog, and ask yourself:

• Is there room for the crate (dog’s safe place)?
• Is there quick access to the outside for bathroom breaks?
• Is there anything that can be chewed, such as drapes, a couch or rugs?
• Are there exposed electrical wires?
• Is there anywhere the dog can hide?
• Will you be able to get the dog out if hidden?
• Are there coffee tables with objects that can be knocked off by a wagging tail?
• Are there plants in the room? If so, check the list of toxic plants in this guide.
• Where will I set up the crate once all hazards are removed?
• Is the crate in a quiet, low-traffic area of the room?
• Is there a blanket in the crate to train your foster dog that this is his/her bed?

Please be sure to ask your Pet Sitter Coordinator for any of the supplies listed below. They may have some to lend out:

• Food and bowls.
• Crate.
• Bedding – a clean, old blanket or towel or a dog bed that is washable.
• Odor neutralizer (like Nature’s Miracle); it’s the only thing to clean housetraining mistakes. If you clean mistakes with soap and water, your dog will still smell the urine and go to the bathroom in that spot repeatedly.
• Toys such as: hard rubber balls, Kongs, fleece toys, rope toys or Nylabones.
• Collar with an ID tag which must stay on the dog at all times. You will be provided with this.
• Leash.
• Training treats such as string cheese, squeeze cheese, lunch meat or small dog biscuits. Bitter Apple (to spray on leashes, woodwork, drapery — anything you don’t want chewed).
• Vest or bandana that says, “I’m Available for Adoption!” These will be provided to you.

The safest way to transport your dog, is in a secure crate in the back of a SUV or station wagon. The crate should be secured so that it doesn’t tip over or move around. Another option is to use a grill between the back of the vehicle and the back seat. If you have a sedan, then you may be able to secure a crate on the back seat. It is always a good idea to put a blanket down under your crate or in the back section of your vehicle, so that if your dog becomes car sick, or has an accident, the blanket will protect your seats and carpet.

If you can’t fit a crate into your vehicle, your dog is safest in the back seat. Use either a special harness for your dog that hooks on to a seat belt, or a leash that attaches to the seat belt. Avoid letting your dog ride in the passenger seat next to you. Not only can your view be obstructed, but also if you brake suddenly your dog could get injured by hitting the windshield or by the air bag. You might need a few treats to encourage a dog to jump into a car. If you can get a dog to put his front paws up, then you can lift his back end by supporting his hindquarters (as if he were sitting on your crossed arms). If you need to completely lift your dog, the best way is by putting one arm behind his hind legs and one arm in front of his front legs – essentially a scoop. Another way is to have one arm just behind his front legs, and one hand behind his hind legs. This way the dog’s weight is being supported in the same general area of its legs. Keep in mind, most dogs don’t really like to be lifted. Remember to always keep a handle on his/her leash.

• Don’t introduce your dog to people you meet on your walk. For the first 7-14 days (could be more or less) your dog should lay low while he tries to figure out just what this new situation is. You may not see any unwelcome behavior initially. Eventually all will be revealed.
• Do not introduce dog to other dogs (other than your own resident dog). This includes neighborhood dogs, and dogs belonging to family or friends. Why? There is no way to tell how your dog will behave when introducing him/her to other dogs. If foster dog bites a person or dog you are required to report it to the your Pet Sitter Coordinator immediately.
• Don’t throw a party, or have a lot of people over to your home. During the first week you should try to spend quality one-on-one time with your new dog.
• The most important thing to do during this initial transition time is to clearly, but in a NON-confrontational manner, establish the household rules. As well, take care not to “indulge” your dog’s timid, tentative or fearful behavior; we understand how tempting this may be as many of our rescues have come from less than ideal situations, but in the long run it does not benefit the dog.

Please check in with your Pet Sitter or Adoption Coordinator frequently to ensure that all is going well. S/he is your local support and contact for the organization.

• Be alert and make the re-introductions gradually and calmly. Your resident dog(s) may be extremely territorial in the home.
• If possible, go for a walk around your neighborhood with all of the dogs and a handler for each one. Walk the dogs side by side on leashes and allow them to sniff one another and become familiar with each other in neutral territory.
• Give your own resident dog(s) LOTS of love and praise.
• Leave leashes on the dogs when you are in the home, so that you can get immediate control if needed. You may only need to do this for a short time.
• Talk normally. Letting the dogs know that you are fine; they are fine; everything is fine!
• Be patient and go slowly with your new dog as he/she may have been through a stressful surgery, abusive situation or a lot of recent changes.
• Don’t leave your new dog unattended with your resident dog. Even if they seem to get along well in your presence, you should separate the dogs when you leave your house. If you believe there is a valid reason to leave your dogs together (e.g. your dog suffers from separation anxiety), then talk with your Pet Sitter Coordinator first. If you do leave your dogs alone together, be sure to always remove all toys, food and chews, and start slowly.

• Holding the leash too tensely as dogs may react with defensiveness.
• Leaving toys and chews around the house. This can cause resource guarding which can escalate very quickly.
• Remove all toys and chews before you arrive home with your new dog.
• Feeding your new dog with your resident dog. It’s best to separate them initially, and to supervise always.
• Over-stimulating your new dog with introductions to many people or your neighbors’ dogs.

Your dog should be exercised every day, rain or shine. The old adage, “A tired dog is a happy dog,” holds true for dogs in pet sitting situations. Most dogs will need at least two 30+ minute walks a day to release excess energy. If your dog is an adolescent, you may need to step up the activity level to include regular runs/hikes/or brisk walks. A dog that is exercised regularly will tend to sleep when you are not at home – and a sleeping dog cannot do undesirable things, such as bark, chew, etc. Even a 10-week-old puppy that plays inside or in a yard needs numerous daily walks as part of the socialization process. The exception to this is if your dog is recovering from an illness or injury, then they may need rest.

The Baja Dogs Pet Sitter Program requires that all dogs are walked maintaining a safe distance from other dogs or people as necessary. When walking your dog, leave an appropriate and safe distance between your dog and any other dog you meet. This keeps handlers and dogs safe from possible conflicts and also reduces the transmission of diseases. You will need to be extra diligent because many dog owners seem to encourage their dogs to “greet” every dog they encounter out on a walk. This nose-to-nose greeting is particularly stressful for many dogs.

One simple way to avoid an oncoming dog walker is to just cross the street, or start to walk in a wide semi-circle around them. Most people recognize that this is a sign that you don’t want your dogs to meet. If this isn’t possible, just announce to the oncoming walker that you are walking a dog that is not your own, and you would prefer that the dogs don’t greet each other. If you do have an on-leash reactive dog, there are some easy ways to maintain and/or add distance between you and another dog.

Sometimes you must broadcast this loudly if their dog is off-leash or on a retractable leash. Keeping your dog to your side (rather than at the end of the leash) and creating a “body block” with your own body is also helpful. Sometimes it’s impossible to avoid another dog, so just stay calm, walk between your dog and the oncoming dog and move past quickly. Also try talking to your dog, “Fido, keep with me” and giving them treats as you pass an oncoming dog will help keep their attention on you, not on the other dog. Please do not use retractable leashes when walking or running your dog. It’s impossible to have control with a retractable leash, and they can easily tangle or break.

Most potential adopters are looking for dogs with basic manners. You might feel it’s appropriate to let your own dog jump on people, get mouthy during play, or beg for food, but please don’t let dog you are pet sitting have these same indulgences. Set boundaries for your dog, and be consistent. Additional training resources can be provided to you.

A leader in a dog pack is not the biggest dog, not the meanest dog and not necessarily the oldest dog. It is the one who controls the resources! Within a pack of dogs, strong canine leaders rarely use physical means to control other dogs; this is true in both wild and domesticated dogs. Humans can apply this concept of hierarchy by controlling all the resources in the home and doling them out contingent upon desirable behavior.

We require positive, rewards based training for dogs. Increasing your dog’s obedience skills has many benefits. Not only will the future adopter appreciate these skills, but your dog will “show” better when visiting with potential adopters and you will have a much happier pet sitting experience. Some basic obedience cues that your dog should learn are: sit, down, come, crate/bed, stay, heel, and an attention cue such as “watch me.” In many cases, the dog will know some of these commands in Spanish and these are included on the Baja Dogs Intake document. Learning basic commands are very helpful in managing any dog. If you have a dog that does not like other dogs, these cues will be helpful on walks as well. For example, a dog that can heal nicely and that has been taught to “watch” you has less likelihood of making eye contact with another dog and getting aroused.

Many times, owners ask why one should use positive based methods. Please understand that force-based methods including “alpha rolls,” “flooding” techniques (i.e., forced exposure at an uncomfortable distance to the object or being that the dog has an issue with), electric shock devices, and “harsh corrections” can all be problematic for a number of reasons. First, if a dog has aggression issues, using force can further exacerbate an already potentially dangerous situation. Second, using “correction” only or force does not teach the dog what you WANT him to do; only what you don’t want him to do. Third, a foster parent can damage his relationship with the dog if they are always correcting the dog or using aversive methods.

Force based methods can often temporarily suppress undesirable behaviors, but under certain stressors, when a dog feels threatened and has no other options, he may resort to aggression to remove the unpleasant stimulus or to escape the situation.

Positive training methods, on the other hand, are very unlikely to yield such undesirable and unsafe results. Using positive training methods can in fact, increase the likelihood of your dog wanting to respond correctly, increase your dog’s motivation to work, and they are fun for you and the dog!

• Short 5 minute training sessions 4-6 times a day is more effective than one long session.
• Dogs need and respond to positive rewards when learning new behaviors. Remember, most behaviors that we want are boring to a dog, so it’s important to make it more interesting to them. A positive reward is a tasty treat, or a game of fetch, or anything that your dog enjoys.
• You provide the guidance and information he needs to succeed and build his confidence. Always praise your dog when he is doing something good.
• Be consistent with your terminology and routine. Your dog will become confused if you let them steal your socks sometimes, but not others.
• Start small and easy and slowly build from there. Most people jump too quickly into advanced environments (outside on a walk, etc.), so make sure you start inside in a safe and quiet location.
• Use “Oops” or “Ah-Ah” instead of the word “no.” Use sparingly; if it is overused then your dog will no longer respond. It is better if you ask your dog to do a behavior that you do like.
• Be patient and calm. Dogs respond to your tone of voice and facial expressions as well as your emotions. Dogs can read your body language quickly. Don’t try to fake your emotions, as your dog will know.
• Never lose your temper with a dog or strike him—EVER. We want to create and support a harmonious canine/human relationship.

Be patient with your dog. Even house trained adult dogs will make mistakes. If there are smells in your house from another dog or cat, some dogs may “mark” out their territory. This action should be re-directed immediately with a calm “Oops” and escort him outside where he can finish. You will then want to use some odor neutralizer (like Nature’s Miracle) on the areas where the dog “marked” to insure he will not smell and mark that area again. You can begin to house train a puppy at 8 weeks of age. Even if you bring home an adult dog that is housebroken, you will want to follow these guidelines until your dog adjusts to his new situation and to your schedule.

• Determine where you want your dog to eliminate – it could be the backyard, side yard or an indoor substrate such as a Pup Head, litter system or one you have designed.
• When you have determined where he should do his business, take him to the same place every time, and tell him to “do his business.” Take him out when he wakes up, after he eats or drinks, after a play session, or at least every 2 hours. Puppies should go out every 45 minutes until you learn their pattern. Stand with him for 5 minutes. If he eliminates, reward him (with treats, praise, a favorite game and your own special happy dance). If he doesn’t go in 5 minutes, take him back inside and try every 15 minutes until he goes. Every time he goes, make sure you reward him!
• Supervise the puppy closely while you’re inside. If he starts to sniff the floor, or even squats to go, interrupt with a calm “Oops”, scoop him up quickly and take him to the approved spot and praise when he finishes.
• If he goes in the house while you’re not paying attention, don’t correct him – it’s not his fault. Clean it up and go back to your schedule. Use an odor neutralizer (like Nature’s Miracle) to get rid of the smell. Never put the dog’s face in his mess, or yell at him, he won’t understand you, and you will only be teaching him to fear you.

In many cases, your dog will already be crate trained. But should you need to do crate training, following is an excellent guide:

• Barking
• Humping
• Digging
• Begging
• Attention seeking
• Garbage hunting
• Leash pulling
• Greeting manners
• Destructive chewing
• Puppy nipping and rough play
• Submissive and/or excitement urination
• Urine marking behavior
• Fearfulness
• Separation anxiety
• Resource guarding
• Prey drive

• Is my dog getting enough exercise?
• Is he being left alone for long periods of time?
• Does he have interesting toys to keep his mind engaged and stimulated?
• Is he getting enough attention and playtime?
• Am I reinforcing bad behavior? Some examples include verbally scolding a dog when they are seeking attention or engaging the dog when he uses bad manners to get you to play.
• Does my dog have a safe place that is dog-proofed with appropriate chew toys, or am I leaving my own belongings within reach?
• Am I providing specific outlets based on his natural instincts and drives?

Your dog may not display any signs of illness until quite ill. Therefore, it’s up to you to observe your dog closely each day. Call your Pet Sitter Coordinator if you see abnormal behavior; unusual discharges from the eyes, nose or other body openings, abnormal lumps, limping, difficulty getting up or down, loss of appetite or abnormal waste elimination.

Diarrhea can be caused by several factors, including stress, change of diet, poor diet, eating garbage, parasites and viruses. If your foster dog has diarrhea and has no other symptoms, rule out change of diet by feeding your dog 2 cups of cooked rice mixed with one cup of cottage cheese for a day or two, and then reintroduce dry kibble. Provide plenty of fresh water since diarrhea can cause dehydration. To check for dehydration, pull the skin up over the shoulder blades. If it snaps back quickly, the dog is not dehydrated. If the skin goes down slowly, then the dog is dehydrated and needs fluids. Dehydration can kill a puppy so call your Pet Sitter Coordinator if you suspect your dog is dehydrated. In an emergency, take your dog directly to your vet and get in touch with the Pet Sitter Coordinator as soon as possible.

Your dog’s vaccines will be current and the dog will have been dewormed. Rabies vaccines are given to dogs at 3 months of age. If you have to administer any deworming or other medication, you will be provided with instructions and Baja Dogs will assume the cost for these.

A normal temperature for dogs and puppies is 101 to 102.5 degrees fahrenheit or 38.3 to 39.2 degrees celcius. Any temperature below 100 degrees fahrenheit (38 celcius) or above 103 (39 celcius) is a problem. Call your Pet Sitter Coordinator immediately. If a puppy has a temperature below 100 degrees (38 celcius), place him on a heating pad turned to low and cover him with a towel immediately. If the dog’s temperature is 103 degrees (39 celcius) or higher, and the puppy has been on a heating pad, remove him from the pad immediately.

All veterinary care must be pre-authorized by calling your Pet Sitter Coordinator. Once a visit has been authorized, call to make an appointment at the approved vet office (approved by your Pet Sitter Coordinator). You must bring your dog’s current records with you to the appointment. Please arrange to have your dog seen during regular business hours as Emergency Veterinary Offices can be quite expensive. Once treatment has begun, you must continue with the same veterinary clinic.

Please note: BDLP has a policy that it may not reimburse individuals for vet bills for animals if you do not receive pre-approval or go to an approved vet office. Emergency/night-time clinics are incredibly expensive and should only be used in cases of dire emergencies and/or after pre-approval. This being said, our first priority is the safety and well being of our dogs so if it is a dire situation and you cannot get ahold of your Pet Sitter Coordinator, please seek medical attention at your discretion.